After covering so much ground on the South Island of New Zealand, relaxing at Bay of Many Coves is calling your name. Perfectly situated in Queen Charlotte Sound between the two islands, you board a water taxi in Picton, and take a 30-minute ride through the sound. And the ride alone feels like an excursion more than a taxi. The views only heighten your excitement for your stay. Your extra effort to arrive at this breathtaking resort pays off with the seclusion and exclusivity you know you’ll experience when you’re staying at Bay of Many Coves.
In a secluded cove in Queen Charlotte Sound Marlborough New Zealand, a luxurious resort lies nestled amongst pure nature: Bay of Many Coves. With only 10 guest rooms and staff that live on-site, and the resort being the only establishment within miles, you feel like you have the entire cove to yourself.
TRANQUIL MORNINGS AT BAY OF MANY COVES
There is something truly magical about mornings here in Queen Charlotte Sound. Sunlight slowly illuminates the cove as you watch from bed, listening to the bay water lap against the shoreline, and the sounds of birds in the sky. Being that there are very limited guest accommodations at Bay of Many Coves, the rooms cascade down a hillside, allowing every single apartment-style room to have a stunning view of the cove.
You enjoy slowly waking up with the sun. You make your way to the room’s private kitchen to make some coffee in the French press. As the beans grind, the aroma already fills the air. You take the coffee out to the deck and wrap yourself in a blanket and enjoy the cool spring morning. Watching the clouds drift in the sky and the landscape awaken, you sip on your coffee and take it all in.
There is really no such thing as getting enough of this view but hunger tells you it’s time to peel yourself away and get on with the day.
BREAKFAST AT KUMATAGE CAFE
Finally, you throw on some jeans and flannel and make your way down to the café for some breakfast, and obviously — more coffee. You are greeted by the same friendly face that checked you in yesterday; since there are only about 10 staff members, they’re all friendly faces. You order a latte and some pancakes with caramelized bananas (and try not to drool) and stare out the window at the peaceful bay. The pancakes arrive and their deliciousness almost rivals the view. You take your time, read a little of your book, sip on your latte, and regularly look up to peer out the window.
DAYDREAMING OF WHAT LIFE WOULD BE LIKE
A few minutes later, Graeme pops in to say good morning and chat about your stay so far. He’s so personable and easy to talk to, you almost forget that he and his wife are the managers. You learn more about how they hire their amazing staff and keep them on-board while being so secluded. While listening, you’re really daydreaming about what it would be like to live there full time.
Alas, you do not live there. But that doesn’t mean you can’t soak up every single bit possible before your departure. You relocate from inside the cafe out to the couches on the stunning deck. It’s still a little chilly out, so you grab one of the many blankets in the basket by the couch. Once snuggled in, you open up your book and enjoy utter relaxation at a place where time seems to stand still.
You only realize the time because a boat has pulled up to the dock. The mail has arrived, along with tonight’s new guests. Graeme, Kim, and staff are waiting and ready to greet them. You watch them unload, knowing all too well what it feels like to lay your eyes on Bay of Many Coves for the first time. As they make their way up the dock, you head back to your room.
PEACEFUL PERFECTION IN THE ROOM
Back at the room, you debate how to spend the next few hours. Even though the sun is shining and it’s a gorgeous day, it’s just a little too chilly to go in the pool or out paddleboarding in the cove, and the dolphins that inhabit the bay don’t seem to be out. Sounds like a perfect time to open some wine. Thankfully, the folks at Bay of Many Coves had the forethought to stock the room with a few bottles. They sadly aren’t free, but the price doesn’t even slow you down from reaching for the corkscrew.
The wine has been poured and you’re relaxing in the apartment living room, never tiring of this amazing view into the Marlborough Sound. The mountains, the water, everything makes it the perfect destination to disconnect and unwind. With no noises of cities or cars… it is the peaceful perfection. Is this the most relaxed you’ve ever been? Probably.
Reservations are required at the only resort restaurant, The Foredeck Restaurant. Dress code is also enforced, so you know at some point you do have to get up and get ready. Luckily for you, there is a luxurious bathroom the size of your apartment back home (somehow we failed to take a single photo of the bathroom). Bay of Many Coves has loaded up this bathroom with spa-worthy products that each have their own heavenly scents. Almost takes the chore out of getting presentable. Almost.
DINNER AT THE FOREDECK RESTAURANT
As is your standard, you arrive at the restaurant early for a glass of wine before dinner. You opt for a Sauvignon Blanc, considering that is what the Marlborough region is famous for. After one sip you congratulate yourself on the excellent choice. The patio of The Foredeck Restaurant offers the BEST view at Bay of Many Coves. Raised up above the café, unobstructed views of the cove. The outdoor heaters and couch blankets once again come in handy as the evening chill sets in.
The resort is not currently at full capacity, meaning there’s only 3 or 4 tables of guests for dinner tonight. You’re seated with a perfect view of the sun going down as all of the doors are appropriately glass. You are brought out a menu of tonight’s offerings… it all looks delectable! But, you don’t eat meat, so you let the server know and they delightfully reassure you that this is no problem. The chef loves a challenge and being creative in the kitchen and despite the limited guests — has plenty of local fresh ingredients to please everyone.
They. Are. Not. Wrong.
Every single dish is artfully presented. Whether it was on the menu or a modification. You know this because you can see your neighbor’s dish, as well. Speaking of your neighbor, you overhear that they also aren’t in the mood for meat and IMMEDIATELY recommend they get the smoked salmon gnocchi and their lives will never be the same.
MAKING NEW FRIENDS
As dinner (and of course drinks) goes on, the small dining room becomes lively with conversation. A new staff member has just started at the resort after traveling to New Zealand from London with her boyfriend. You and your new smoked salmon gnocchi pals practically combine tables, ordering glasses of wine and chatting about home and your New Zealand adventures.
It’s at around four glasses of wine and two old fashioneds that you find out there are glow worms on the Bay of Many Coves property. It urgently becomes a fantastic idea for you and your new friends from the table next to you to go find them.
ONLY AT BAY OF MANY COVES
There’s dark, and there’s no-other-civilization-around DARKNESS. This is a dark you didn’t even know existed. You’re barely away from the hotel on the path and can’t even see your hand in front of your face. And let’s be clear – this has nothing to do with the amount of wine consumed.
Thankfully, the trail is short. It’s a dirt path, less than a mile round trip, and is clearly marked (as long as you have your flashlight; cell phone flashlight worked out perfectly for this). You come across the portion of the trail where the glow worms are. You’ve never seen a glow worm… you literally have no idea what to look for. The cell phone flashlight backfires here because now your eyes need to readjust to the extreme darkness.
After a short period of what can only be associated with feeling completely blinded… tiny bright dots start to appear in the dirt embankment next to you. Suddenly there are hundreds of glowing spots lining the entire wall. You almost can’t believe that an actual living creature glows in the dark. It takes a minute or two to sink in what it is you’re witnessing. It’s one of those moments you know you’ll remember forever.
The trail takes a turn and is no longer under tree cover. As if you haven’t experienced enough magic tonight, the Milky Way twinkles in the Marlborough sky. You make your way, slowly but surely, back to your room in the pitch darkness. Say goodnight to your new-found friends and turn in for the night.
Bay of Many Coves was a dream come true, a dream you didn’t even know you had.
